Soon boys, the 18th I plan on busting a trail through the kinsol area. Still need a third, cause this one isnt set up right. Hope to get one this weekend for installing next week
Well figured out my drive shaft wobble now it drives super nice, still planing on going out this weekend somewhere close though, lol I forgot an iterior door light connected without a switch so my dual agms were down to 4 volts over a few days. Yikes! They came back in a little over two hours witha 20 amp charge, hope I didnt fuck their life cycle. Shoulda left them on trickle charge but whatever....
on board air in the works. welded up a manifold outta 2"x2" box tubing and ported a sanden air compressor, waiting for gaskets from Florida and one way valve from ebay to keep the system charged. need a few compression fittings to plumb it all through.
Very cool, I'm in the midst of modding my A/C compressor (Sanden compressor) into onboard air....I now have everything but the hose, once I get that I'll have the Freon drained and I'm off to the races.
Beer! Have you considered doing the mods for oil/ grease retention inside the crank case? and if you need a source for gaskets i know where to get them
Honestly Radical I haven't had any issues regarding the CCV....I check my air filter regularly (after each trip out digging) and I'm very surprised to find that the blowby on my engine is minimal (for now) I'm not even seeing ANY trace of oil in my air filter. My XJ is not a daily driver and really only sees speeds of 60KPH+ when heading to the trail.
For now I have not even considered it, but future consideration may be in order....only time will tell.
Some guys use grease and keep the internal vent, others block off the internal vent and fill it withhigh temp oil and moly grease and then vent the case separatly trought the fill hole
Not too sure which way i will go yet.... Considering my big compressor just shat an electric motor berring i thing i will build this one for the largest dudy cycle
I can so I can run air nailers and WHY with a larger external tank for on job sites,
That and it would be super cool to rig up a 100psi watter gun turret off the roll bar in the heep and nail topless mustangs full of scantly clad women......with the water gun I mean oh yeah Im a prick!
On board air setup started,
braket fabed up using my new skills with a set of calipers and bending stuff, free just some time
Coalessing filter, 105$
Various fittings and stuff, 30-50$
Fancy breather filter 10$
Parts from a little master craft compressor, including blow off valve 2 gallon tank, shut off switch, a regulator if you choose to use, and a couple of gauges too.free
Set of gaskets from century air in the USA 35$
Electric air valve off ebay, 35$
5' Air line from princess auto 5$
New belt to fit new brackets 35$ goodyear part number4060990 is what i got, little tight, next time i will get the 4060998
Still need to wire up the relays for the recirculating oil sump,
Builds pressure in tank and lines in 40-50 seconds at idle
Very happy with progress so far, cant wait to finnish this little project off
Cool, I haven't done anything with mine for...well since before my last post. Looking good so far, I also stripped down my little mastercraft, pretty much 60% of what I needed + a nice 5G tank.
Alright, got it all plumbed in. Recirculating sum plumbed and all in all its working well, need to wire up a set of relays and perhaps replumb from the compressor to the separator with longer coil of 1/2" copper pipe. Now I haven't closed the main vent from the crank case to the head, and it doesnt seem to puke out too much through to the filter like this at an idle. But at a high idle it pisses through one solution would be to put a bigger reservouir under the catch, or the other would be to plug the main hole in the head that goes from the intake to the crank case and let the smaller hole do the job of venting the crank case.
UPDATE so my coalescing oil filter fails, once the filter material was saturated it just puked oil through the system to the tank where its all captured nicely.. couldn't even tell it wasn't keeping it all back, so i took it apart ripped the media they use for a filter off and will re direct the up-flow so's that the oil coming out will be drawn away from where the output is and just capture it in the bottom of the bowl.. will keep you updated as this develops.
Well found my rad almost got a good stick thru it my one time out so far, and my e fan was rattling around destroying the fins in the rad so apart that came, been meaning to do this for a while figured i woud share.
Trans cooler with fan, full shroud for over the rad to mount the fan to and a little time. Bam
Built a nicer cb antenna mount today, some steel bent and three connectors to go thru the tub and turn 90*s up. this has bassically fixed my untunable setup. (I also removed the quick disconnect from the antenna) Initially all my ignition noise was gone, and my swr was 1.5 without any tuning to the antenna. iI havent tested it out yet to see the level of ignition noise coming out of it since welding, painting it and putting it back in but my swr is back up to 2 so probably need to ground it out a little better.
Lesson is dont try to mount the antenna to a separate part of the tub like the hatch. it just creates complications. Was also listening to half a convorsation from california this morning. Lol love long wave.
So finally found the papers that were in my brother in laws name! Got everything transfered out and took her for a rip into town, man the heat! Coming off this tranny is unbearable! Im almost thinking my cat might be plugged causing major heat buildup, however I now have a base line for when i wire the trans cooler fan in and to see if it helps if not i will have to rethink how i mount this stuff!
Well put together a cheep snorkle/ cold air intake. Some 3" abs shit pipe and some mole pipe. Seams to work good, cant wait to carve it down and paint it up and make it not look like shit pipe.
update all painted and finished off with some inner tube and a small chunk of rubber vacuum line to clean the hood line up. I'm satisfied till I build the cowling to keep mud and water out of it
hah that snorkel is badass! If you can grind the connector piece you wouldn't even know it was abs. I've been looking for a snorkel for my 3rd gen forever - might have to rip off your idea
shift kit is in!
and boy does it look much more involved than I had first realized, looking for the vb from an old dead aw4 as of now. gonna have to clean up a bench to do this on, maybe the kitchen counter after the kids born. or I will clean out the shed and do it in there.
come to my senses and decided I don't need all that lift, and I don't like the over axle truss Idea any more. takes up all my up travel. also the room I will be using to lower the front so some new spring pads with separate tabs for shocks and sway bars and the passenger side will have the mount for the pan hard bar in the front of the u bolts. instead of in center with them. means moving the PHB mount on the frame forward to stock-ish location again but more outside the frame like it is now, gonna do this and the fuel tank all at once. working on my bumper end caps in front. ..will post some picks tomorrow. finally getting motivated to do something after two weeks of catching up with life after the birth of my daughter.. life is awesome!
Well, fuel tank was full of sludge, must have gotten in there when i was in the mud hole in s pools earlyer this year. need a new sock and I should be good after cleaning it out today.
Also found an elocker, 4:30 gears so Im changing gears now. Looks like I blew an axle seal, and my power steering pump is leaking somewheres..... Ffs. Back to the drawing board. Also need to re torque my wheel berrings up front. ..... So work work work money money money ordered a pacesetter long tube header for the stroker build, as well as an intake manifold from a 99 and up wrangler. has higher intake air velocities which produce more torque at low rpm.
Got to pay down my cc and send a deposit to the machien shop for some work this winter...
well cleanned up the rear springs and put the extra leaf back in, was way too soft when I was out last fully loaded with camping gear. and the springs were saggy. so I took the second half wraps and switched sides with them hope to ballance this thing out in the rear...
after getting an Idea as to what I need to do to pull off a shackle reversal and keep it flexing with the castor remaining around 6* and loosing 1.5" ... basically a new drive-shaft is already in order due to the fact mine sucks. also need to drill some holes in plate to make new u-bolt plates gets rid of that truss... , and some ten gauge for the mounts up front and some small chunks of either dom or just pipe for of the shackle bushings ...
It was then That I realized my steering box was fucking wobbling around like a leaf in the wind (had the tires off and it up on both axles) needless to say I broke another bolt off in the bottom of the frame. out came the drill bits and taps and a day later after buying new predrills & grade 8 hardware I had it fixed....
So this brace I just built and finished installing may just fix my death wobble issues and save me from digging into the shackle reversal right away.... still in the works but I think I want to build my mounts, u-bolt plates, leaf spring bushings and obtain a long spline drive shaft and plan every step out before winding up where I am at with a shit square tube shaft again killing my front output..
got the used 99+ intake from the courier yesterday, thing is sexy! looks like the 91-95 fuel rail will fit in it. and already found a post about porting around the injector hole on the inner two intake tubes
also ordered a full remaned set of bosh mark 3 27lb/hr four hole injectors advertised for strokers for 50$ delivered they are for 99+ so they will fit the intake no problem the only thing is the newer style plugs change with the 99+ turnaround.. so a few searches yield some adapters for as much as I got the injectors for. A little research tells me that these newer injectors are much more efficient, and that they, although being from a constant pressure system, are in fact much more forgiving when it comes to fluctuating fuel pressures like you see inside the 91-95 fuel rail I will be utilizing. once matched with a hesco adjustable fuel pressure regulator (only available to fit the 91-95 fuel rail) this combination of injectors and intake should throw some pep in ma step weather its on the old block or in a new stroked build.
also just recieved notice that my header is on its way! oh boy oh boy! im getting hot to trot about this.. how am I gonna sleep for the next year?
wheel bearings have the tiniest play in them. so off come the hubs tomorrow for some re-torquing and inspection. gotta have it all nice for next weekend gonna go wheeling got three months insurance on it now so were good to go
update on our last outing troubles. ok so after a roll of shop towels a new sock and some elbow grease I had the gas tank pulled and ripped apart and the problem was quite apparent.. think I need to do the tj filler mod and extend it up a few inches....... like a foot and a half. I had mud a 1/8" layer of it on the bottom of the tank from going in the sippy hole down in spools.. lol next time i will hit it harder and have protection.
ready to roll as of 10/04/14
got my headders today, went with pacsetter cause of all the high end exhaust manufacturers they don't have any reviews saying that they crack like borla headders or banks revolvers.
Can't wait to get out that way again, I know Shane was broken after our last trip out....not sure if he's fixed yet or not.
That jeep of yours is going to be a tank, when and if you ever get it "done" there's not going to be much that will stop it I'm guessing.
I need to go see him and sell him an actuator n see if i can help get his shit going. Yah about the only thing stopping it is my own misgivings about rollovers.... Till i get a cage i suppose.... Ah lots of stuff will stop it like mud... Those tires suck in it. burn em off for a year or two n buy some stickies..fuck it
"I have never met a jeep owner that was satisfied, thats why ajeep project is never done"
just got back from wheeling the piss out of the jeep, few problems..
brakes are acting weird pedal sticks to the floor and the brakes stick on and the master cylinder is puking fluid out the top of it.. blew a power steering line off and dumped the fluid every where, and blew a fuse for the running lights I think either that or my day time running lamp module.
so its off the road for a little bit, gonna get this cooler installed, and the power steering tube and fin cooler in as well. build some steering dampener brackets and put some dual pistons on there, and fix my brakes up.
update, brakes sticking to the floor was the nut and bolt tightening down that was holding the pedal to the plunger, a urithan fender, flat fender washer and a nylock and it seams to be staying cool.
working on my HD trans cooler install. going well little expensive as I went with mostly the High temp high pressure Russell fitting and reusable swiveling hose ends just regular rubber oil cooling lines.
opted to mount it in the hood for good access to air flow. I will also build a set off baffle boxes to draw air in thru the hood in front the cooler and pull it thrugh the cooler with a 12" E fan and
getting motivated here, got some fab time in on the steering stabilizer.
modeling it sort of after the ones they sell i went and attatched the frame side to the sway bar mount. however i decided to modify the design to suit my high-steer and my corrected drag-link angle. on the drag link side i went with the old standby oem toyota/ what they sell you style hookup but went with three U bolts to hold it sturdy as apposed to one or two.
I have to agree, it will be nice to have it out to show off. Kids a little young still and so is the build so chances are I will avoid any possible multipul rollover opportunities. However,I did have it out just befor these last couple things got built. Had it burried up to the frame in a mud hole and winched myself out for about 50+ feet.
Was knarly had the passenger side tire burried to the bumper the shackle on that side inverted. all in all it was a good day of being stuck.
well after some short discussion I think I am reworking my cooler mount to be hard mounted to the chassis, this way the hood closes around it. we will see I suppose, means bending some stuff at work after I cut it all out at home. need to pick up a bunch of thin 1x1 angle iron and some 14-16 gauge sheet metal for the baffles and mounts.. more work, why do I do this to myself.
got the welder whip in the mail so Sunday was weld day my buddy brought the little miller out of storage and we wired up a 240- 120v extension cord splicer to run off a dryer plug or oven plug which really lights up this little machine, got my stuff mocked up previously in the week so it was a tak tack tack show till it was ready to come out for full penetration welds.
failed the pass/fail pressure test.. back to the drawing board.. actually it was back to eBay to order more aluminum soldering goop. i fucked up one of the anadized aluminum fittings thankfully it wasn't soldered in the fitting.
got to finnishing the cooler mount off with some paint, re soldered the main fitting in the cooler and the anodized fitting i fucked up i found was bottoming out in the 90* fitting so some trimming to the replacement and bam it sealed no need to solder it. so getting the cooler mounted and I need to change my hole in my hood. so waiting on getting my welder back hopefully soon.
well welder in hand I struggled through some sheet metal today, was very difficult for me to dial it in so i had a lot of poopy welds to grind down. got a fucked up part from work and with a little modding it was cut to fit.
doesn't look too too bad for my first time sheet metal welding. i also warped the shit out of it with too much heat in one place, rookie! right here, if it doesnt satisfy me then i will buy a new hood and try again with lessons learned. all well. looks alright for now.
a guy is never done, got the cooler mounts finished and the power steering cooler mounted and installed, hacked the pcm mount onto the frame and mocked up one side of the front bumper. almost out of zip disks and i think the ilde pulley in the motor really needs changed so I'm gonna hit lordco today.
some current flex shots, leafs are settled out as much as they are going to I think.
small list of things I want to kind of rework!
front diff housing is getting front armor and a welded truss from leaf pad to leaf pad, and the mounts/ ball gussets are going to be redone to truss all the way to the leaf pad...
along with new spring pads and shock mounts either on the spring pad or the trussing in the knuckle.
going to be modding my design of the front bumper slightly so I can still steer at full tuck, and finishing that off. afterward the tub is getting some armor from quadra tech, 3/16 pre shaped rear corners, and I will build rock sliders and an external a pillar that bolts to them and my inner roll cage and replace the horizontal stock a-b support with a piece of HREW. should make for a decent cage in a roll over if i beef up the b pillar with a removable X-brace
With finishing off the skid pans and possibly tie it all to the frame using a sandwiched plate and rubber with spaced bolts to allow for a small amount of deflection like the body mounts.....
theses are my jeep goals for this year.. after putting two dents in her the stroker motor can wait.. I want to still have the jeep to put it in after all..
well got the welder back from my buddy and got to replicating my one mocked up front bumper side managed to get it together and off the truck for completion getting prety nice welds with 3/16 plate, flux core on 120v and 30+ amps off a dryer plug to feed it all. running out of wire. and tips..... will have it back on for sundays run gonna pull a long night tomorrow
this bumper will have compartments for straps and other various recovery gear in a convenient location
Perhaps I will take you up on that, im getting good penetration, its just slow going. Was considering taking it up to my stick welder and burning in some real thick rods. Will Finnish ccapping the ends of it tonight when I get home from saltspring and my grand fathers. And stick it back on half welded together if I have to for Sunday morning.
well were all back together, had to fight to get my six bumper bolst back in, turns out i was fighting a lumpy weld, got it cleared up and it went together with some ease. gonna paint it befor we head out here
thank you Larry, been wanting to do this for some time. next is armor and rock sliders. then finnish the rear bumpers with some little nubs.. then off my 3/16 rear armor i will build my tire carrier
well blew my rear end, think i split my carrier or ring gear.. will pull in the am then its a matter of sourcing the nessisairy parts for the e locker to go in and build a shift cable apparatus...
turns out it was a chunk of spider gear wedged between the carrier and ring gear, and one side of the carrier wasn't bolted in apparently... I may have been cross eyed when I did that...
got to building a cable actuator for the e locker rear diff going in next, works good gotta order the right length cable and figure out a lever for in cab
so after buying a slightly off 4.375 welded diff for the gears to go in the front, I was concerned about undue wear on my t case. well a semi retired guy got a hold of me and said he has a good match for me that would take my Lockright, for 50$, and he has the jig and press to do my rear wheel bearings and the knowledge to help me set the front 3RD back up properly all for the sum of beer and company!!! whole foods hell I am stoked this guy is being very generous in offering up his services. says his place is in among the infamous little mountain towing crowd in Combs, so I just cant wait! gonna be some sick rigs in various stages of built. I am also picking up another spare AW4 trans with a torque converter for 30$ from Alberni and a Taurus E-fan from Qualicum for my buddy Matt's build.. should make for a good weekend next week. and I am hoping to get it back together for the end of march and re insure it sometime after that, still waiting on taxes to pay of the cc and get up above water here but were not doing too badly,
got the front axle pulled to fix some stuff I wasn't happy with. Think I need to shorten the drive shaft by an inch while its out. was about to put the rear axles in without the bearing retaining clips in! oops! good thing I gnarled up the one seal. which kept me from finishing it off last night. As far as I'm getting till I have the welder back.
so inside the lockright we found a ring broke in half its non load bearing so we were trying to figure out why it broke. I suspect this wear ring in the end of the long shaft may indicate something...
got the trusses fixed up on the knuckles of the front axle tube, made them with a tab for shock mounts later, I plan on building new upper shock towers eventually so that is just a fore thought. going to look for a pattern for some front diff armor since I dented the stock metal already. sent a message away to Karnage fab to see if he has any ready to go.
going to run the last short spring in the front pack upside down so the bends in the ends are pointing down hoping that this will keep them from pinching the pack at full tuck and keep it straight for now
well got to fabing up some knuckle stops and painting the front diff, still rendering ideas for armor.... might just say fuck it for the time to put it on and fab it up but we will see, might go stupid simple.
also got to addressing the skid plate which has seen better days. it was bent up into the TC and causing some rubbage luckly no leaks like last time it was also not protecting any thing, might as well have had a crossmember in there i guess it didnt help the fact that I cut out most the formed support metal to clear the tc and trans that weren't meant to be in there. Basically my plan is to scab some shit on there for now to make it work and when it comes time to flat belly the thing I will go all out. right now I cant justify spending 400$ on half a 4x8 sheet of 3/16 when scraps are cheep.. for now well you know it all goes in the same place eventually so when I'm done with it it will go right where it was meant to.
so I tackled the skid plate this morning im sure it was pleasant for all my neibours to wake up to me hammering metal, grinding and welding. but its all done with some reenforcing and some shims to lift the trans up by 3/4" - 1" to align the drive shaft properly. this also gives me back some drive shaft length so we wont have to cut too much out of it. also addressed some sloppy ness in the front driveshaft square to deal with this we run up two beads of weld on all four surfaces and grind them down so it still slips together without sloppage. while i was doing this I was cleanign off the grease with an acetone filled rag.. woops.. didnt put it far enough away from the welding.... FIRE!! hahahaha.
well its all back together, went to switch out the TPS cause ive been having issues with the throttle at just off an idle well i Fucked the replacement I had sitting here when I tried to put it on, so back on with the old one and BOOM it works fine now! was just being pissy I guess,
oh boy having an open rear end again sure is nice! not dragging tires around every corner is sure nice!
just have to get the actuator housing modded then measure for and order a cable to fit up into the cab, I am thinking of running it either into the center console or under the dash,,,,
also considering rehashing the center console idea, building my own out of sheet metal and bringing it up to elbow height and incorporating the new Radesigns AW4 shifter into it with the rear actuator cable and possibly making the TC cable shift as well to bring it up there. but this is just a consideration
for now it will probably be simple and cheep.
shaped out a single cover for the bumper boxes, not sure how I will hinge it on therr but for now im thinking
so little update for you guys figured out my hinge and latch on the front bumper cover I had shaped out. hinge infront up top and a latch to keep it closed.
I also figured out why my rear drive shaft was never right, the splines on the cv end were fine splines and the tail shaft i had was for large splines, so after buying two semi fucked up shafts with out tail housings I built myself a shorter shaft with proper mating of spline sizes.
oh and a new tool chest for all my misc shit that has been sitting around
well got these old jeep axles sold finally, this is why I hang onto shit.got the jeep all ripped apart, vale cover is all cleaned up and new cork gasket to keep the lube in it, needs a oil change its been running rich for some time now. mocking up exhaust and gotta gasket match the intake to be ok with the head and not cause a loss of power.
well i started around noon when the wife and I got home from town with multiple breaks I managed to get the manifolds back in place and the last bolt is always a nifty finger trick.
well that's the short version:
I started by being quite malicious with a die grinder and a heavy hawg bit.... cuts in a few places in the intake gasket runner area to match the gasket which matched the head. that took a few hours to say the least, I finished the surfaces off with fine stones that came with the master craft die grinder set.
I then proceed to match the rest of the gasket to the manifold then referencing the head I see a few places I could have left some meat but that will come out with the port and polish of the head next time I'm in there I guess the head wasn't quite fully gasket matched from the factory like I thought I hope I didn't just fuck myself in power gains for the time being.
So looks like i am going to keep all my idler pullies and swap my new introduction for a groovy pulley and run the tension in reverse, I see nothing wrong with the idea. while on the subject all i did was drill out the stock 93 cherokee pump I had in there out to fit the bolts I had lucky I also had the pulley with holes in it so I was golden there.
got the y pipe mounted directly to the engine block to help support the header from cracking like ALL the rest. going to tack the exhaust together tomorrow morning and see just where everything lye's going to run a clam coupler between the exit pipe and the glass pack for easy RE n RE if I feel its called for, also going to come up with another mount for the glass pack at the front so the flex joint isn't holding the weight of the front end of said glass pack
my idea was i have a piece of pipe the t takes a shock rubber and there is an arm on another pipe that wasn't big enough for my end game so i will scavenge it tomorrow. fired up just fine no issues so far.
oh yes I also hogged out the step down in the bottom of the throttle body I have here and got a little carried away i can now see light past the butterfly valve when itsl closed only in places.. now measures roughly 59.95mm
see if that helps or hinders, either way its now a great candidate to go to the machine shop to get bored to 62.5mm properly.
I can't believe how much work you've put into this thing over the last year. Every time I come on you've got something new and cool fabbed up. Hats off to your dedication!
thanks man It has been a hard road with endless nights and way too much thought. sufficed to say I am going for the gold here, was thinking for shits i might add up all the little recipts them my wife said i better not I might cry..
still haver her sold of coilover suspention for in the rear.. i cant wait!
well its done no leaks in the end and fully welded exhaust, pacesetter header into flex pipe into thrush glass pack into stock tail pipe till i upgrade it to match the thrush. four exhaust hangars and that flexpipe should keep this thing from cracking the header. . it SOUNDS AMAZING I can not describe it throaty does not quite do it justice. sounds like it wants to run! cant wait to take it to a double berm and see where peak torque is now! with the 4.10 gears and stock power train it was peaking in four low third 2 3050-3150 rpm so i kinda wanna hit the same berm and spin all four and see where it hits.. the gears will make a difference and so will these new additions, new in that I have had them stashed in the closet for a year.
jeeps got a knock. needs bearings and who knows what else... FML seams like its justone thing after another. well guess I need to make some decisions and talk to the wife about how I am going to afford to rebuild a motor this year.. I don't suspect it will last the summer and I am uncertain what combination I will end up running. but to build the stroker minimum it will cost me is 1800in parts and machining up to 3000 depending on how extravagant I go. to freshen up a 4.0l block with new pistons rings aftermarket cam bearings and seals new timing set and a valve lap were talking in the neighborhood of 1000-1300. 330 for cam lifters and timing set, 50-100 for main rod cam bearings, 130 for high flow oil pump 180 for pistons and rings 100 for seals and maybe 250 for the valve lap and rods pressed onto pistons and cam bearings pressed into block ..... iff the stroker crank dosnt need anything as well as the rods then its another 600+ on top of the 1100 figure just to get the right pistons...
Well I would just buy another mystery motor off a scrapper, considering they would want as much as I could rebuild one for its not really the way to go for me. Also in reality I have been tossing the stroker idea around for that little extra torque and any mystery motor should have gaskets seals and a tune up while out while possibly needing timing set and or whatever else. A fresh one from a late model tj would be my only considerations but they are rare. So rebuild. Re man stroker.. These are on the table again and will be moving ahead at a snails pace.
haven't posted up fro some time here figured I should let you guys know I am running some 15w40 rotella in her till she blows. looking over some cam shaft selections for the next power plant. wheeling good running good below 3k rpm looool.
select-able locker works good in the rear I can turn in small circles now, got a few more kinks in the front leafs and adjusted the steering box to tighten up my sloppy steering. need to re work the front end this winter, fix a few things and try and get my height down slightly.
Apparently I should also be replacing all the 25year old rubber hoses as I blew a heater core hose just yesterday. It feels good on the highway so nanimo will be a destination in the future here.
Well were moving again, way better place witha mostly enclosed carport, wood stove and a private yard!
So my plan is to tug a little trailer to move most of our stuff there, and there fore I need a trailer hitch. Decided to tear into a a few things found a burnt up altenator lead and a missing leaf spring shim. New steel shims will be here thursday, will order new 0 gauge alt cable.
Took a moment to fix my pcm mounting lost the big plate and just mounted it to the bace over the engine bay. Way better. Will also fix how my fuse box mounts while im in there and be done with it.
New cables, had to fuck the gromet on the back of the alt to make the double ot work. Fit perfectly thanks to the guys at all battery for the nice product only asked for 2 gauge lol so not what i asked for but would have had to do what i did no matter what.
My plan is to get a nice rubber gromet to go over the stud of the alt in the future just to get rid of that old brittle plastic piece.
Hey all! Been a long time since ive posted up not much t report.
Well the fam jam and I have moved again. Got a way nicer place bigger carport but its got a sawdust floor. ...
Jeeps still running daily with that horrible bottom end clack.. its now bad over 2000 rpm
Been in this new place for three months now just getting my shop area figured, out built a little bench and still need to rebuild my old 41 kellog compressor. Figured out the block i was toting around probably needs to go to scrap. Also aquired another one that is dry siezed from sitting. So this new one is gonna be gone over this spring and freshened up then smashed in the jeep.
Also laid off for the next few months so give me a hollar if you need any work done!
Well been picking up odd jobs doing mehanic work, wheel bearings and breaks in a 2003 ford f350head gasket on a honda, timing belt on a hundi. Lower control arms on a pt cruser.. thats just this last month.. so i decided to tear into the heep to rid myself of that bottom end knock... got the oil pan off after removing my new exaughst.. and thats about as far as i got this weekend... gonna try to get some time in the evenings over the week to look it over... can already tell the timing chain is sloppy.. good thing ive got a couple donor blocks... one had a decent timing set in it.. trying to find out how to check an oil pump for tolerances...
Well tackled this after the kid went to sleep tonight. Got all the tolerances up to minimum spec of .003 on my rod journals.. crank was close to being fucked! Well it is but I did a quick polish and thats all its getting.
Every rod bearing had the babbit worn right off! Jo wonder i had 0 lbs of oil preasure at idle!
Cant wait to havemit back together!
Looks much better in black. Nice axle paint aha
Man that Jeep looks killer! Hopefully we can see it out on a run soon?
Soon boys, the 18th I plan on busting a trail through the kinsol area. Still need a third, cause this one isnt set up right. Hope to get one this weekend for installing next week
Looks awesome!!
toy axles? I have a 4.10 third....
What you want for it?
Well figured out my drive shaft wobble now it drives super nice, still planing on going out this weekend somewhere close though, lol I forgot an iterior door light connected without a switch so my dual agms were down to 4 volts over a few days. Yikes! They came back in a little over two hours witha 20 amp charge, hope I didnt fuck their life cycle. Shoulda left them on trickle charge but whatever....
Sorry I didn't see your reply right away. I'd let my 3rd go for 50$
email me if you want it (i'll be in the cowichan area tomorrow)
kennyr2013@gmail.com
Sent
on board air in the works. welded up a manifold outta 2"x2" box tubing and ported a sanden air compressor, waiting for gaskets from Florida and one way valve from ebay to keep the system charged. need a few compression fittings to plumb it all through.
Very cool, I'm in the midst of modding my A/C compressor (Sanden compressor) into onboard air....I now have everything but the hose, once I get that I'll have the Freon drained and I'm off to the races.
Beer! Have you considered doing the mods for oil/ grease retention inside the crank case? and if you need a source for gaskets i know where to get them
Honestly Radical I haven't had any issues regarding the CCV....I check my air filter regularly (after each trip out digging) and I'm very surprised to find that the blowby on my engine is minimal (for now) I'm not even seeing ANY trace of oil in my air filter. My XJ is not a daily driver and really only sees speeds of 60KPH+ when heading to the trail.
For now I have not even considered it, but future consideration may be in order....only time will tell.
Some guys use grease and keep the internal vent, others block off the internal vent and fill it withhigh temp oil and moly grease and then vent the case separatly trought the fill hole
Not too sure which way i will go yet.... Considering my big compressor just shat an electric motor berring i thing i will build this one for the largest dudy cycle
I can so I can run air nailers and WHY with a larger external tank for on job sites,
That and it would be super cool to rig up a 100psi watter gun turret off the roll bar in the heep and nail topless mustangs full of scantly clad women......with the water gun I mean oh yeah Im a prick!
You work on your 100psi water pistol and I'll start promoting the sale of white t-shirts!
Sounds like you 2 have basics covered.....I'll require an invite for that trip please.
On board air setup started,
braket fabed up using my new skills with a set of calipers and bending stuff, free just some time
Coalessing filter, 105$
Various fittings and stuff, 30-50$
Fancy breather filter 10$
Parts from a little master craft compressor, including blow off valve 2 gallon tank, shut off switch, a regulator if you choose to use, and a couple of gauges too.free
Set of gaskets from century air in the USA 35$
Electric air valve off ebay, 35$
5' Air line from princess auto 5$
New belt to fit new brackets 35$ goodyear part number4060990 is what i got, little tight, next time i will get the 4060998
Still need to wire up the relays for the recirculating oil sump,
Builds pressure in tank and lines in 40-50 seconds at idle
Very happy with progress so far, cant wait to finnish this little project off
Cool, I haven't done anything with mine for...well since before my last post. Looking good so far, I also stripped down my little mastercraft, pretty much 60% of what I needed + a nice 5G tank.
Alright, got it all plumbed in. Recirculating sum plumbed and all in all its working well, need to wire up a set of relays and perhaps replumb from the compressor to the separator with longer coil of 1/2" copper pipe. Now I haven't closed the main vent from the crank case to the head, and it doesnt seem to puke out too much through to the filter like this at an idle. But at a high idle it pisses through one solution would be to put a bigger reservouir under the catch, or the other would be to plug the main hole in the head that goes from the intake to the crank case and let the smaller hole do the job of venting the crank case.
UPDATE so my coalescing oil filter fails, once the filter material was saturated it just puked oil through the system to the tank where its all captured nicely.. couldn't even tell it wasn't keeping it all back, so i took it apart ripped the media they use for a filter off and will re direct the up-flow so's that the oil coming out will be drawn away from where the output is and just capture it in the bottom of the bowl.. will keep you updated as this develops.
Well found my rad almost got a good stick thru it my one time out so far, and my e fan was rattling around destroying the fins in the rad so apart that came, been meaning to do this for a while figured i woud share.
Trans cooler with fan, full shroud for over the rad to mount the fan to and a little time. Bam
Built a nicer cb antenna mount today, some steel bent and three connectors to go thru the tub and turn 90*s up. this has bassically fixed my untunable setup. (I also removed the quick disconnect from the antenna) Initially all my ignition noise was gone, and my swr was 1.5 without any tuning to the antenna. iI havent tested it out yet to see the level of ignition noise coming out of it since welding, painting it and putting it back in but my swr is back up to 2 so probably need to ground it out a little better.
Lesson is dont try to mount the antenna to a separate part of the tub like the hatch. it just creates complications. Was also listening to half a convorsation from california this morning. Lol love long wave.
That's a purdy lookin' mount you've got there. I'm trying to figure out how the hell you got that 90* bend in there though, haha
I can't tune my antenna properly either - I've got major grounding issues.. I'll have to figure out something like this too at some point
Shane the company is called RF parts company,
Www.rfparts.com
I ordered Rfu538 male to male PL259
RFu male to female right angle adaptor
And 83 UHF female to female 2" amphenol
This allowed me to keep the coaxial conector inside the tub and turn the 3/8" stud mount I previously got into a useable mount.
So finally found the papers that were in my brother in laws name! Got everything transfered out and took her for a rip into town, man the heat! Coming off this tranny is unbearable! Im almost thinking my cat might be plugged causing major heat buildup, however I now have a base line for when i wire the trans cooler fan in and to see if it helps if not i will have to rethink how i mount this stuff!
Well put together a cheep snorkle/ cold air intake. Some 3" abs shit pipe and some mole pipe. Seams to work good, cant wait to carve it down and paint it up and make it not look like shit pipe.
update all painted and finished off with some inner tube and a small chunk of rubber vacuum line to clean the hood line up. I'm satisfied till I build the cowling to keep mud and water out of it
hah that snorkel is badass! If you can grind the connector piece you wouldn't even know it was abs. I've been looking for a snorkel for my 3rd gen forever - might have to rip off your idea
shift kit is in!
and boy does it look much more involved than I had first realized, looking for the vb from an old dead aw4 as of now. gonna have to clean up a bench to do this on, maybe the kitchen counter after the kids born. or I will clean out the shed and do it in there.
come to my senses and decided I don't need all that lift, and I don't like the over axle truss Idea any more. takes up all my up travel. also the room I will be using to lower the front so some new spring pads with separate tabs for shocks and sway bars and the passenger side will have the mount for the pan hard bar in the front of the u bolts. instead of in center with them. means moving the PHB mount on the frame forward to stock-ish location again but more outside the frame like it is now, gonna do this and the fuel tank all at once. working on my bumper end caps in front. ..will post some picks tomorrow. finally getting motivated to do something after two weeks of catching up with life after the birth of my daughter.. life is awesome!
Well, fuel tank was full of sludge, must have gotten in there when i was in the mud hole in s pools earlyer this year. need a new sock and I should be good after cleaning it out today.
Also found an elocker, 4:30 gears so Im changing gears now. Looks like I blew an axle seal, and my power steering pump is leaking somewheres..... Ffs. Back to the drawing board. Also need to re torque my wheel berrings up front. ..... So work work work money money money ordered a pacesetter long tube header for the stroker build, as well as an intake manifold from a 99 and up wrangler. has higher intake air velocities which produce more torque at low rpm.
Got to pay down my cc and send a deposit to the machien shop for some work this winter...
picked up the oem toy locker today great deal from malahat auto.
built the steering box brace today, nice welds coming out of the neighbors little 120v Lincoln. equipment green as per standard issue
well cleanned up the rear springs and put the extra leaf back in, was way too soft when I was out last fully loaded with camping gear. and the springs were saggy. so I took the second half wraps and switched sides with them hope to ballance this thing out in the rear...
after getting an Idea as to what I need to do to pull off a shackle reversal and keep it flexing with the castor remaining around 6* and loosing 1.5" ... basically a new drive-shaft is already in order due to the fact mine sucks. also need to drill some holes in plate to make new u-bolt plates gets rid of that truss... , and some ten gauge for the mounts up front and some small chunks of either dom or just pipe for of the shackle bushings ...
It was then That I realized my steering box was fucking wobbling around like a leaf in the wind (had the tires off and it up on both axles) needless to say I broke another bolt off in the bottom of the frame. out came the drill bits and taps and a day later after buying new predrills & grade 8 hardware I had it fixed....
So this brace I just built and finished installing may just fix my death wobble issues and save me from digging into the shackle reversal right away.... still in the works but I think I want to build my mounts, u-bolt plates, leaf spring bushings and obtain a long spline drive shaft and plan every step out before winding up where I am at with a shit square tube shaft again killing my front output..
got the used 99+ intake from the courier yesterday, thing is sexy! looks like the 91-95 fuel rail will fit in it. and already found a post about porting around the injector hole on the inner two intake tubes
also ordered a full remaned set of bosh mark 3 27lb/hr four hole injectors advertised for strokers for 50$ delivered they are for 99+ so they will fit the intake no problem the only thing is the newer style plugs change with the 99+ turnaround.. so a few searches yield some adapters for as much as I got the injectors for. A little research tells me that these newer injectors are much more efficient, and that they, although being from a constant pressure system, are in fact much more forgiving when it comes to fluctuating fuel pressures like you see inside the 91-95 fuel rail I will be utilizing. once matched with a hesco adjustable fuel pressure regulator (only available to fit the 91-95 fuel rail) this combination of injectors and intake should throw some pep in ma step weather its on the old block or in a new stroked build.
also just recieved notice that my header is on its way! oh boy oh boy! im getting hot to trot about this.. how am I gonna sleep for the next year?
wheel bearings have the tiniest play in them. so off come the hubs tomorrow for some re-torquing and inspection. gotta have it all nice for next weekend gonna go wheeling got three months insurance on it now so were good to go
update on our last outing troubles. ok so after a roll of shop towels a new sock and some elbow grease I had the gas tank pulled and ripped apart and the problem was quite apparent.. think I need to do the tj filler mod and extend it up a few inches....... like a foot and a half. I had mud a 1/8" layer of it on the bottom of the tank from going in the sippy hole down in spools.. lol next time i will hit it harder and have protection.
ready to roll as of 10/04/14
got my headders today, went with pacsetter cause of all the high end exhaust manufacturers they don't have any reviews saying that they crack like borla headders or banks revolvers.
Can't wait to get out that way again, I know Shane was broken after our last trip out....not sure if he's fixed yet or not.
That jeep of yours is going to be a tank, when and if you ever get it "done" there's not going to be much that will stop it I'm guessing.
I need to go see him and sell him an actuator n see if i can help get his shit going. Yah about the only thing stopping it is my own misgivings about rollovers.... Till i get a cage i suppose.... Ah lots of stuff will stop it like mud... Those tires suck in it. burn em off for a year or two n buy some stickies..fuck it
"I have never met a jeep owner that was satisfied, thats why ajeep project is never done"
just got back from wheeling the piss out of the jeep, few problems..
brakes are acting weird pedal sticks to the floor and the brakes stick on and the master cylinder is puking fluid out the top of it.. blew a power steering line off and dumped the fluid every where, and blew a fuse for the running lights I think either that or my day time running lamp module.
so its off the road for a little bit, gonna get this cooler installed, and the power steering tube and fin cooler in as well. build some steering dampener brackets and put some dual pistons on there, and fix my brakes up.
update, brakes sticking to the floor was the nut and bolt tightening down that was holding the pedal to the plunger, a urithan fender, flat fender washer and a nylock and it seams to be staying cool.
working on my HD trans cooler install. going well little expensive as I went with mostly the High temp high pressure Russell fitting and reusable swiveling hose ends just regular rubber oil cooling lines.
opted to mount it in the hood for good access to air flow. I will also build a set off baffle boxes to draw air in thru the hood in front the cooler and pull it thrugh the cooler with a 12" E fan and
getting motivated here, got some fab time in on the steering stabilizer.
modeling it sort of after the ones they sell i went and attatched the frame side to the sway bar mount. however i decided to modify the design to suit my high-steer and my corrected drag-link angle. on the drag link side i went with the old standby oem toyota/ what they sell you style hookup but went with three U bolts to hold it sturdy as apposed to one or two.
I'm rather enjoying this build, thanks for sharing.
Be nice to see it in action here soon.
I have to agree, it will be nice to have it out to show off. Kids a little young still and so is the build so chances are I will avoid any possible multipul rollover opportunities. However,I did have it out just befor these last couple things got built. Had it burried up to the frame in a mud hole and winched myself out for about 50+ feet.
Was knarly had the passenger side tire burried to the bumper the shackle on that side inverted. all in all it was a good day of being stuck.
well after some short discussion I think I am reworking my cooler mount to be hard mounted to the chassis, this way the hood closes around it. we will see I suppose, means bending some stuff at work after I cut it all out at home. need to pick up a bunch of thin 1x1 angle iron and some 14-16 gauge sheet metal for the baffles and mounts.. more work, why do I do this to myself.
got the welder whip in the mail so Sunday was weld day my buddy brought the little miller out of storage and we wired up a 240- 120v extension cord splicer to run off a dryer plug or oven plug which really lights up this little machine, got my stuff mocked up previously in the week so it was a tak tack tack show till it was ready to come out for full penetration welds.
failed the pass/fail pressure test.. back to the drawing board.. actually it was back to eBay to order more aluminum soldering goop. i fucked up one of the anadized aluminum fittings thankfully it wasn't soldered in the fitting.
got to finnishing the cooler mount off with some paint, re soldered the main fitting in the cooler and the anodized fitting i fucked up i found was bottoming out in the 90* fitting so some trimming to the replacement and bam it sealed no need to solder it. so getting the cooler mounted and I need to change my hole in my hood. so waiting on getting my welder back hopefully soon.
well welder in hand I struggled through some sheet metal today, was very difficult for me to dial it in so i had a lot of poopy welds to grind down. got a fucked up part from work and with a little modding it was cut to fit.
doesn't look too too bad for my first time sheet metal welding. i also warped the shit out of it with too much heat in one place, rookie! right here, if it doesnt satisfy me then i will buy a new hood and try again with lessons learned. all well. looks alright for now.
a guy is never done, got the cooler mounts finished and the power steering cooler mounted and installed, hacked the pcm mount onto the frame and mocked up one side of the front bumper. almost out of zip disks and i think the ilde pulley in the motor really needs changed so I'm gonna hit lordco today.
some current flex shots, leafs are settled out as much as they are going to I think.
small list of things I want to kind of rework!
front diff housing is getting front armor and a welded truss from leaf pad to leaf pad, and the mounts/ ball gussets are going to be redone to truss all the way to the leaf pad...
along with new spring pads and shock mounts either on the spring pad or the trussing in the knuckle.
going to be modding my design of the front bumper slightly so I can still steer at full tuck, and finishing that off. afterward the tub is getting some armor from quadra tech, 3/16 pre shaped rear corners, and I will build rock sliders and an external a pillar that bolts to them and my inner roll cage and replace the horizontal stock a-b support with a piece of HREW. should make for a decent cage in a roll over if i beef up the b pillar with a removable X-brace
With finishing off the skid pans and possibly tie it all to the frame using a sandwiched plate and rubber with spaced bolts to allow for a small amount of deflection like the body mounts.....
theses are my jeep goals for this year.. after putting two dents in her the stroker motor can wait.. I want to still have the jeep to put it in after all..
Lookin good man.
well got the welder back from my buddy and got to replicating my one mocked up front bumper side managed to get it together and off the truck for completion getting prety nice welds with 3/16 plate, flux core on 120v and 30+ amps off a dryer plug to feed it all. running out of wire. and tips..... will have it back on for sundays run gonna pull a long night tomorrow
this bumper will have compartments for straps and other various recovery gear in a convenient location
good stuff. i have a 220v mig with gas if ya want a hand with anything.
Perhaps I will take you up on that, im getting good penetration, its just slow going. Was considering taking it up to my stick welder and burning in some real thick rods. Will Finnish ccapping the ends of it tonight when I get home from saltspring and my grand fathers. And stick it back on half welded together if I have to for Sunday morning.
.
im leaving for 12 days on vacation. anytime when i get back tho. just let me know.
well were all back together, had to fight to get my six bumper bolst back in, turns out i was fighting a lumpy weld, got it cleared up and it went together with some ease. gonna paint it befor we head out here
Looks good Brad.
thank you Larry, been wanting to do this for some time. next is armor and rock sliders. then finnish the rear bumpers with some little nubs.. then off my 3/16 rear armor i will build my tire carrier
: update finnishing it off
looking real good. what did you cut the 3/16 plate with?
just a dewalt grinder and jet brand 3/64 60 grain cut off wheels I've been using a grinder for 10 years now.. I still suck but not as much as i did.
turned out awesome, nice work.
thankyou
well blew my rear end, think i split my carrier or ring gear.. will pull in the am then its a matter of sourcing the nessisairy parts for the e locker to go in and build a shift cable apparatus...
turns out it was a chunk of spider gear wedged between the carrier and ring gear, and one side of the carrier wasn't bolted in apparently... I may have been cross eyed when I did that...
got to building a cable actuator for the e locker rear diff going in next, works good gotta order the right length cable and figure out a lever for in cab
so after buying a slightly off 4.375 welded diff for the gears to go in the front, I was concerned about undue wear on my t case. well a semi retired guy got a hold of me and said he has a good match for me that would take my Lockright, for 50$, and he has the jig and press to do my rear wheel bearings and the knowledge to help me set the front 3RD back up properly all for the sum of beer and company!!! whole foods hell I am stoked this guy is being very generous in offering up his services. says his place is in among the infamous little mountain towing crowd in Combs, so I just cant wait! gonna be some sick rigs in various stages of built. I am also picking up another spare AW4 trans with a torque converter for 30$ from Alberni and a Taurus E-fan from Qualicum for my buddy Matt's build.. should make for a good weekend next week. and I am hoping to get it back together for the end of march and re insure it sometime after that, still waiting on taxes to pay of the cc and get up above water here but were not doing too badly,
progress! will post up soon!
got the front axle pulled to fix some stuff I wasn't happy with. Think I need to shorten the drive shaft by an inch while its out. was about to put the rear axles in without the bearing retaining clips in! oops! good thing I gnarled up the one seal. which kept me from finishing it off last night. As far as I'm getting till I have the welder back.
so inside the lockright we found a ring broke in half its non load bearing so we were trying to figure out why it broke. I suspect this wear ring in the end of the long shaft may indicate something...
got the trusses fixed up on the knuckles of the front axle tube, made them with a tab for shock mounts later, I plan on building new upper shock towers eventually so that is just a fore thought. going to look for a pattern for some front diff armor since I dented the stock metal already. sent a message away to Karnage fab to see if he has any ready to go.
going to run the last short spring in the front pack upside down so the bends in the ends are pointing down hoping that this will keep them from pinching the pack at full tuck and keep it straight for now
pictures not working?
well got to fabing up some knuckle stops and painting the front diff, still rendering ideas for armor.... might just say fuck it for the time to put it on and fab it up but we will see, might go stupid simple.
also got to addressing the skid plate which has seen better days. it was bent up into the TC and causing some rubbage luckly no leaks like last time it was also not protecting any thing, might as well have had a crossmember in there i guess it didnt help the fact that I cut out most the formed support metal to clear the tc and trans that weren't meant to be in there. Basically my plan is to scab some shit on there for now to make it work and when it comes time to flat belly the thing I will go all out. right now I cant justify spending 400$ on half a 4x8 sheet of 3/16 when scraps are cheep.. for now well you know it all goes in the same place eventually so when I'm done with it it will go right where it was meant to.
so I tackled the skid plate this morning im sure it was pleasant for all my neibours to wake up to me hammering metal, grinding and welding. but its all done with some reenforcing and some shims to lift the trans up by 3/4" - 1" to align the drive shaft properly. this also gives me back some drive shaft length so we wont have to cut too much out of it. also addressed some sloppy ness in the front driveshaft square to deal with this we run up two beads of weld on all four surfaces and grind them down so it still slips together without sloppage. while i was doing this I was cleanign off the grease with an acetone filled rag.. woops.. didnt put it far enough away from the welding.... FIRE!! hahahaha.
more picks working on my front diff armor today, got it mostly done
.
all armored up and installed!
you're making me want to turn on the gas to my welder. hahaha.
its all flux core, it burns hottest on this little guy, its why I can get away with all the fab! gas sure is nice though!
well its all back together, went to switch out the TPS cause ive been having issues with the throttle at just off an idle well i Fucked the replacement I had sitting here when I tried to put it on, so back on with the old one and BOOM it works fine now! was just being pissy I guess,
oh boy having an open rear end again sure is nice! not dragging tires around every corner is sure nice!
just have to get the actuator housing modded then measure for and order a cable to fit up into the cab, I am thinking of running it either into the center console or under the dash,,,,
also considering rehashing the center console idea, building my own out of sheet metal and bringing it up to elbow height and incorporating the new Radesigns AW4 shifter into it with the rear actuator cable and possibly making the TC cable shift as well to bring it up there. but this is just a consideration
for now it will probably be simple and cheep.
shaped out a single cover for the bumper boxes, not sure how I will hinge it on therr but for now im thinking
so little update for you guys figured out my hinge and latch on the front bumper cover I had shaped out. hinge infront up top and a latch to keep it closed.
I also figured out why my rear drive shaft was never right, the splines on the cv end were fine splines and the tail shaft i had was for large splines, so after buying two semi fucked up shafts with out tail housings I built myself a shorter shaft with proper mating of spline sizes.
oh and a new tool chest for all my misc shit that has been sitting around
well got these old jeep axles sold finally, this is why I hang onto shit.got the jeep all ripped apart, vale cover is all cleaned up and new cork gasket to keep the lube in it, needs a oil change its been running rich for some time now. mocking up exhaust and gotta gasket match the intake to be ok with the head and not cause a loss of power.
well i started around noon when the wife and I got home from town with multiple breaks I managed to get the manifolds back in place and the last bolt is always a nifty finger trick.
well that's the short version:
I started by being quite malicious with a die grinder and a heavy hawg bit.... cuts in a few places in the intake gasket runner area to match the gasket which matched the head. that took a few hours to say the least, I finished the surfaces off with fine stones that came with the master craft die grinder set.
I then proceed to match the rest of the gasket to the manifold then referencing the head I see a few places I could have left some meat but that will come out with the port and polish of the head next time I'm in there I guess the head wasn't quite fully gasket matched from the factory like I thought I hope I didn't just fuck myself in power gains for the time being.
So looks like i am going to keep all my idler pullies and swap my new introduction for a groovy pulley and run the tension in reverse, I see nothing wrong with the idea. while on the subject all i did was drill out the stock 93 cherokee pump I had in there out to fit the bolts I had lucky I also had the pulley with holes in it so I was golden there.
got the y pipe mounted directly to the engine block to help support the header from cracking like ALL the rest. going to tack the exhaust together tomorrow morning and see just where everything lye's going to run a clam coupler between the exit pipe and the glass pack for easy RE n RE if I feel its called for, also going to come up with another mount for the glass pack at the front so the flex joint isn't holding the weight of the front end of said glass pack
my idea was i have a piece of pipe the t takes a shock rubber and there is an arm on another pipe that wasn't big enough for my end game so i will scavenge it tomorrow. fired up just fine no issues so far.
oh yes I also hogged out the step down in the bottom of the throttle body I have here and got a little carried away i can now see light past the butterfly valve when itsl closed only in places.. now measures roughly 59.95mm
see if that helps or hinders, either way its now a great candidate to go to the machine shop to get bored to 62.5mm properly.
well good night guys
I can't believe how much work you've put into this thing over the last year. Every time I come on you've got something new and cool fabbed up. Hats off to your dedication!
thanks man It has been a hard road with endless nights and way too much thought. sufficed to say I am going for the gold here, was thinking for shits i might add up all the little recipts them my wife said i better not I might cry..
still haver her sold of coilover suspention for in the rear.. i cant wait!
well its done no leaks in the end and fully welded exhaust, pacesetter header into flex pipe into thrush glass pack into stock tail pipe till i upgrade it to match the thrush. four exhaust hangars and that flexpipe should keep this thing from cracking the header. . it SOUNDS AMAZING I can not describe it throaty does not quite do it justice. sounds like it wants to run! cant wait to take it to a double berm and see where peak torque is now! with the 4.10 gears and stock power train it was peaking in four low third 2 3050-3150 rpm so i kinda wanna hit the same berm and spin all four and see where it hits.. the gears will make a difference and so will these new additions, new in that I have had them stashed in the closet for a year.
FACK FACK FACK
jeeps got a knock. needs bearings and who knows what else... FML seams like its justone thing after another. well guess I need to make some decisions and talk to the wife about how I am going to afford to rebuild a motor this year.. I don't suspect it will last the summer and I am uncertain what combination I will end up running. but to build the stroker minimum it will cost me is 1800in parts and machining up to 3000 depending on how extravagant I go. to freshen up a 4.0l block with new pistons rings aftermarket cam bearings and seals new timing set and a valve lap were talking in the neighborhood of 1000-1300. 330 for cam lifters and timing set, 50-100 for main rod cam bearings, 130 for high flow oil pump 180 for pistons and rings 100 for seals and maybe 250 for the valve lap and rods pressed onto pistons and cam bearings pressed into block ..... iff the stroker crank dosnt need anything as well as the rods then its another 600+ on top of the 1100 figure just to get the right pistons...
shitty deal! why not just go buy a long block from the wrecker?
Well I would just buy another mystery motor off a scrapper, considering they would want as much as I could rebuild one for its not really the way to go for me. Also in reality I have been tossing the stroker idea around for that little extra torque and any mystery motor should have gaskets seals and a tune up while out while possibly needing timing set and or whatever else. A fresh one from a late model tj would be my only considerations but they are rare. So rebuild. Re man stroker.. These are on the table again and will be moving ahead at a snails pace.
haven't posted up fro some time here figured I should let you guys know I am running some 15w40 rotella in her till she blows. looking over some cam shaft selections for the next power plant. wheeling good running good below 3k rpm looool.
select-able locker works good in the rear I can turn in small circles now, got a few more kinks in the front leafs and adjusted the steering box to tighten up my sloppy steering. need to re work the front end this winter, fix a few things and try and get my height down slightly.
Apparently I should also be replacing all the 25year old rubber hoses as I blew a heater core hose just yesterday. It feels good on the highway so nanimo will be a destination in the future here.
Well were moving again, way better place witha mostly enclosed carport, wood stove and a private yard!
So my plan is to tug a little trailer to move most of our stuff there, and there fore I need a trailer hitch. Decided to tear into a a few things found a burnt up altenator lead and a missing leaf spring shim. New steel shims will be here thursday, will order new 0 gauge alt cable.
Took a moment to fix my pcm mounting lost the big plate and just mounted it to the bace over the engine bay. Way better. Will also fix how my fuse box mounts while im in there and be done with it.
New cables, had to fuck the gromet on the back of the alt to make the double ot work. Fit perfectly thanks to the guys at all battery for the nice product only asked for 2 gauge lol so not what i asked for but would have had to do what i did no matter what.
My plan is to get a nice rubber gromet to go over the stud of the alt in the future just to get rid of that old brittle plastic piece.
Hey all! Been a long time since ive posted up not much t report.
Well the fam jam and I have moved again. Got a way nicer place bigger carport but its got a sawdust floor. ...
Jeeps still running daily with that horrible bottom end clack.. its now bad over 2000 rpm
Been in this new place for three months now just getting my shop area figured, out built a little bench and still need to rebuild my old 41 kellog compressor. Figured out the block i was toting around probably needs to go to scrap. Also aquired another one that is dry siezed from sitting. So this new one is gonna be gone over this spring and freshened up then smashed in the jeep.
Also laid off for the next few months so give me a hollar if you need any work done!
great progress! good luck on the build
Well been picking up odd jobs doing mehanic work, wheel bearings and breaks in a 2003 ford f350head gasket on a honda, timing belt on a hundi. Lower control arms on a pt cruser.. thats just this last month.. so i decided to tear into the heep to rid myself of that bottom end knock... got the oil pan off after removing my new exaughst.. and thats about as far as i got this weekend... gonna try to get some time in the evenings over the week to look it over... can already tell the timing chain is sloppy.. good thing ive got a couple donor blocks... one had a decent timing set in it.. trying to find out how to check an oil pump for tolerances...
Well tackled this after the kid went to sleep tonight. Got all the tolerances up to minimum spec of .003 on my rod journals.. crank was close to being fucked! Well it is but I did a quick polish and thats all its getting.
Every rod bearing had the babbit worn right off! Jo wonder i had 0 lbs of oil preasure at idle!
Cant wait to havemit back together!
Looks like it's just a matter of few weeks before you're back on the trails.
Pages