Changed out the rear 12" shocks for a set of 10" and it eliminated my shocks bottoming out and giving me uptravel issues and was able to now flex it out way more, still without limiting droop on the opposite side (have about 2" extension and compression left)....and can really stuff the rear wheel.
Here are the 2 "before" pics with 12" shocks in the rear......and the after with 10" shocks
Haha....thanks man....its getting so close to done that it hurts....have to talk with shop on Friday about getting driveshafts done and then its driveable !!
Then I had to build a second crossmember behind the first one to support and protect the duals (I dont know if I am crazy on the design but it works for now and I may change this later) The drivetrain is tucked up as much as possible without doing a true flatbelly and clocking the tcases.
Also got the rear shocks mounted by creating a new top shock mount bar and some lower mounts from Karnage to get the shocks as vertical and as far outboard as possible......I may have uptravel limitations but will have to see once I roll it out of garage and test the travel. I also got the brake lines plumbed up after removing the LSPV.
Well since I have the automatic with the inchworm adapter and a set of duals I had to make my own crossmembers so I started off by modifying the original mount from the automatic housing.
Then I started mocking up some crossmember setups
Then got some plate cutup and started tacking it up
Since the Bastard is going to be needing driveshafts made soon I got moving on clearancing the double carden joints on the (2) '86 and later "IFS style" driveshafts I have. It would be easier to just find some older DC driveshafts but since I have these kicking around.....I can spend the money elsewhere (like getting driveshafts made). These are the style of DC that came in IFS trucks/4Runners that will only flex to about 20 degs......whereas the older ones will go to 35 degs.
This was really easy to do following these directions.....I remember taking one of these apart years ago and I remember it being a real bitch......but the trick of adding some small washers into the cap was what made this super simple to take apart. After that it is just some minor grinding and put it back together. Took all of 2 hours including cleaning.
In the last picture you can see the difference in the angle of flex before and after (right is stock at 20 deg and the left is after modifying and is 35degs easy and can go to 40degs when pressed on)
Changed out the rear 12" shocks for a set of 10" and it eliminated my shocks bottoming out and giving me uptravel issues and was able to now flex it out way more, still without limiting droop on the opposite side (have about 2" extension and compression left)....and can really stuff the rear wheel.
Here are the 2 "before" pics with 12" shocks in the rear......and the after with 10" shocks
I have 26" clear under the front tire
Haha....thanks man....its getting so close to done that it hurts....have to talk with shop on Friday about getting driveshafts done and then its driveable !!
Then I had to build a second crossmember behind the first one to support and protect the duals (I dont know if I am crazy on the design but it works for now and I may change this later) The drivetrain is tucked up as much as possible without doing a true flatbelly and clocking the tcases.
Also got the rear shocks mounted by creating a new top shock mount bar and some lower mounts from Karnage to get the shocks as vertical and as far outboard as possible......I may have uptravel limitations but will have to see once I roll it out of garage and test the travel. I also got the brake lines plumbed up after removing the LSPV.
Well since I have the automatic with the inchworm adapter and a set of duals I had to make my own crossmembers so I started off by modifying the original mount from the automatic housing.
Then I started mocking up some crossmember setups
Then got some plate cutup and started tacking it up
Since the Bastard is going to be needing driveshafts made soon I got moving on clearancing the double carden joints on the (2) '86 and later "IFS style" driveshafts I have. It would be easier to just find some older DC driveshafts but since I have these kicking around.....I can spend the money elsewhere (like getting driveshafts made). These are the style of DC that came in IFS trucks/4Runners that will only flex to about 20 degs......whereas the older ones will go to 35 degs.
I found a good "how-to" here http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/cvmod/
This was really easy to do following these directions.....I remember taking one of these apart years ago and I remember it being a real bitch......but the trick of adding some small washers into the cap was what made this super simple to take apart. After that it is just some minor grinding and put it back together. Took all of 2 hours including cleaning.
In the last picture you can see the difference in the angle of flex before and after (right is stock at 20 deg and the left is after modifying and is 35degs easy and can go to 40degs when pressed on)